“. . . the desire her whole person expressed was that of communicating to me what she was tasting: communicating with me through flavors, or communicating with flavors through a double set of taste buds, hers and mine. . . .”
Italo Calvino, "Under the Jaguar Sun."

Manhattan

Joey Bats: My Favorite Pasteis de Nata

I love pasteis de nata, Portuguese egg custard tarts, and Joey Bats has the best ones I’ve had this side of the Atlantic. What makes them the best? Well, they’ve got a super creamy and flavorful custard filling; a flaky, laminated crust; a dusting of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top; and, best of all, […]

Urban Hawker: Singaporean Food Hall in Midtown Manhattan

Urban Hawker is a brand-new food Singaporean food hall in Midtown Manhattan. I’ve been a few times and, while the prices are certainly at Midtown level, the food is nonetheless great, and includes some options that have been missing from New York’s Singaporean and Malaysian offerings. Urban Hawker can get quite crowded at peak times, […]

More Excellent Georgian Food at Chama Mama

There seems to be no shortage of excellent Georgian food in New York City. This is, perhaps, unsurprising, given both that the NYC Metro Area is the center of the Georgian-American population and that Georgian food is extremely easy to love. The “Chama” in Chama Mama evidently means to eat, which we did. We started […]

Saravanaa Bhavan: A Chennai Chain in NYC

I’m constantly looking out for good South Indian food. Now, most people know South Indian food as dosa, utthapam, vada, and idli. Don’t get me wrong, these are great and authentic South Indian foods! But the cuisines of South India are much broader than just these. Because dosa, utthapam, vada, idli—these are breakfast foods. Reducing […]

Albanian Food at Çka Ka Qëllu

New York City has a surprisingly large Albanian population. I first became aware of this when I was at a COVID test site at LaGuardia Airport and saw the list of languages for which the test site had interpreters. I recognized most of the languages, but the one that stood out as unusual was called […]

Hunan Food at Atlas Kitchen

Atlas Kitchen specializes in the cuisines of the provinces of Sichuan and (especially) Hunan in southwest China. Hunan cuisine, like Sichuan cuisine, is characterized by the extensive use of chilies, but while Sichuan food uses primarily dried chilies, Hunan food relies on the blunter heat of fresh chilies. We got three cold appetizers. Two were […]

Georgian Food at Oda House

I love Georgian food and Oda House’s is great. Georgian cuisine is heavily influenced by the cuisine of Persia, which can be seen in its extensive use of herbs, walnuts, and pomegranates and emphasis on sweet-tart-savory flavor profiles. The appetizer known as nigvziani badrijani or eggplant rolls is a prime example of this: eggplants rolled […]

Underground Ethiopian Food at Meskerem

One of my favorite Ethiopian restaurants in New York is in a basement. It’s called Meskerem and it also has some of the best vegetarian food in the city. Unlike India, Ethiopia is not a country with a lot of vegetarians. However, the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, of which almost half of Ethiopians are members, […]

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