“. . . the desire her whole person expressed was that of communicating to me what she was tasting: communicating with me through flavors, or communicating with flavors through a double set of taste buds, hers and mine. . . .”
Italo Calvino, "Under the Jaguar Sun."

Brooklyn

Syrian Jewish Sweets at Mansoura Bakery

Brooklyn is home to many distinct Jewish communities. One of these is the Syrian Jewish community in Gravesend. We visited just prior to Sukkot, so there were many stands selling citrons (etrogim) and the bakeries were having trouble keeping up with demand. Luckily, though, Mansoura Bakery still had plenty of desserts for us to sample. […]

Ferdinando’s Foccacieria: Old-School Sicilian Food in Brooklyn

Ferdinando’s Foccacieria isn’t a bread shop. It also isn’t one of those classic Italian-American red-sauce restaurants. Opened in 1904, Ferdinando’s Foccacieria makes real Sicilian food and, though a relic from over 100 years ago, still makes it really well. We began with antipasti, as you do. This platter has pickled cauliflower and peppers, cold fried […]

Elevated Oaxacan Food at Claro

Once a year, it’s nice to have a fancy meal, and this year’s was Claro, an extraordinary Oaxacan restaurant in Brooklyn. Upscale Mexican cuisine can be a mixed bag, but you can tell when a chef has a deep understanding of a cuisine, and that was certainly the case here. The evening began with wonderful […]

Food From Throughout Thailand at Boran

Most Thai restaurants have a particular angle, a subset of the broader Thai cuisine that they specialize in. Usually that’s regional: northern, northeastern/Isan, southern, central. Boran doesn’t; they have characteristic dishes from all across Thailand. And it’s all great, at least all that I’ve tried. Obligatory when going to a Thai restaurant with my partner […]

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