“. . . the desire her whole person expressed was that of communicating to me what she was tasting: communicating with me through flavors, or communicating with flavors through a double set of taste buds, hers and mine. . . .”
Italo Calvino, "Under the Jaguar Sun."

Mole and Barbacoa at Tacos Morelos

It’s easy to get mediocre Mexican food in New York, but Jackson Heights has it good. There’s a large population there from the central states of Puebla and Morelos, just south of CDMX and the State of Mexico. Tacos Morelos is a particularly good example of this food and, as a bonus, is open until midnight, late enough for me to still get dinner there after my late commute.

taco placero con chorizo y papas

One of the house specialties of Tacos Morelos is the taco placero, a large taco that, traditionally, is filled at the pleasure (placero) of the cook. We got a version with chorizo and potatoes, which is flavorful, hearty, and filling.

tacos de barbacoa

Goat is the traditional meat for barbacoa, pit-cooked meat wrapped in agave leaves, in much of Mexico. Barbacoa de chivo, goat barbacoa, is often difficult to find in New York but Tacos Morelos has an excellent version, served with a lovely fresh salsa verde to balance the gaminess of the goat.

mole ranchero con costillas de puerco

Mole is often considered to be a quite elaborate and refined dish, but it doesn’t have to be. Tacos Morelos’s mole ranchero presents a rustic version of the dish, which is built on bold, though still complex, flavors. This one has a deep richness but also a strong tang from tomatoes and a hit of spice from the dried chiles. You can get it with chicken or, even better, with pork ribs, like we did.

Tacos Morelos
9413 37th Ave
Queens, NY 11372

Mole and Barbacoa at Tacos Morelos

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