“. . . the desire her whole person expressed was that of communicating to me what she was tasting: communicating with me through flavors, or communicating with flavors through a double set of taste buds, hers and mine. . . .”
Italo Calvino, "Under the Jaguar Sun."

Underground Ethiopian Food at Meskerem

One of my favorite Ethiopian restaurants in New York is in a basement. It’s called Meskerem and it also has some of the best vegetarian food in the city.

Unlike India, Ethiopia is not a country with a lot of vegetarians. However, the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, of which almost half of Ethiopians are members, has a strong fasting tradition. 180 days a year, that is half of the year, faithful Ethiopion Orthodox Christians abstain from eating meat. Ethiopia, therefore, has a significant vegetarian food culture, including both dishes that imitate meat and ones that simply make the best of the vegetables they have. I love Ethiopian vegetarian food and order a vegetarian platter whenever I’m at an Ethiopian restaurant.

vegetarian sampler at Meskerem

Dishes on our platter at Meskerem:

1. kik wat: stewed split peas
2. tikil gomen: cabbage, potato, and carrot stew
3. buticha: similar to hummus; a mixture of ground chickpeas and spices
4. fasolia: stewed green beans with carrots
5. gomen: stewed collard greens
6. misr wat: spicy lentil stew
7. misr alicha: mild lentil stew
8. shiro: spicy stewed ground chickpeas
9. ingudai tibs: sauted mushrooms

All of these dishes are excellent, but my particular favorites are the misr wat, which mimics a ground meat dish in both texture and flavor, shiro, which is like the distilled essence of the flavor of an Ethiopian stew, and the mushrooms, which aren’t a part of the standard vegetarian sampler but which I always order separately whenever they’re on the menu. These mushrooms in particular are the best I’ve ever had.

Meskerem
124 MacDougal St
New York, NY 10012

Underground Ethiopian Food at Meskerem

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